Mushrooms are a recurring theme in my life.

And Basque cuisine, in its commitment to seasonality, features them big time around this time of year. About this time last year, I was freaking out about their availability, their quality, and their bargain-basement prices in the market of San Sebastián's Parte Vieja.  Then, throughout the winter, I enjoyed with relative frequency this pintxo.

This year, a week ago, I found myself in a restaurant in the small village of Olaberria, presented with a plate of huge, roasted, tender melting chunks of porcini. Some as big as a newborn's fist. This had to be one of the best things I've eaten this year.

Here's to fall, to mushrooms, and to this place and all its marvels.