Bertakoteka : San Sebastián, Spain
There’s no way to sugarcoat this, but since I moved to San Sebastián (2010) and definitely since the first time I visited years before that, the Old Part has become a lot more touristy. It’s not just tourists fault; locals have both changed habits and become more focused on going out in their neighborhoods, creating a sort of perfect storm. Family-owned pintxo bars are, for the most part, still excellent, but the bar owners who have always chased the easy business of one-time visitors (concentrated mostly on Calle Fermín Calbetón, are still doing that in their brightly lit IKEA-renovated Bars That You Won’t Catch Me Ded In.
That is why the opening of Bertakoteka makes me so, so happy. This is a bar upstairs, restaurant downstairs, a classic formula of the old town of San Sebastián. And instead of trying to do something fusion-y or fast food-y or trendy, the team behind this spot are making some of the best pintxos in the old town, using local produce and techniques they’ve honed at their restaurant Ama in Tolosa, which was just awarded a Michelin star last year. We desperately need this spot, and I’m just so thrilled that the young promises Gorka Rico and Javi Rivero together with their partners for this project, Iker Iriarte and Nagore Rodas, have created this bright spot .
And that’s just upstairs! Downstairs is where you can truly taste what the kitchen is capable of. I ate there recently, and it’s just a lovely parade of what’s local and what’s seasonal. Always rooted in traditional Basque cuisine.
Like this gamba en gabardina, or shrimp in a raincoat, a classic pintxo around here, in what is just a perfect tempura, topped by a mayo made with its own juices.
One thing I love about some of the younger spots around town is how adventurous they get with their drink pairings. This was a little surprise that we started with, kombucha that was fine and sparkling, made from a scoby fed on nothing but apple leaves, and then made from fermented leaves.
This was a glorious brioche from the nearby bakery Galparsoro, topped with smoked butter and a fantastic Agirreoa anchovy.
Even the dipping oil is beyond an afterthought here. I can honestly say this was the first time I’ve been served sunflower oil to dip my bread in, and this cold single pressed one from Basque Country (Araba to be precise) was so delicious! Discovery much?
Here we go, another dish that is just emblematic of why I love this place. Just a humble ensaladilla, or mayonnaise-based salad, right? WRONG. Lobster everywhere.
And so many wine discoveries to make, like this project from Aseginolaza & Leunda, a minimal intervention winery in San Martin de Unx, Navarre.
This dish was one recognized specially by the Michelin guide as one of their best dishes of the year: a gorgeous surf and turf, one of the best dishes ever. Tender tender hake, rebozado in an egg batter and fried, then nappéd with a gelatinous pig ear jus. I mean wow. And guess what?! You can have this one upstairs as a pintxo, too!
A wine from a tiny vigneron in Irouleguy, because Basque Country knows no borders.
Make sure when you go to ask for the specials and off the menu items.
Pluma ibérica is such an underrated cut. I love that in Bertakoteka you get sort of an extension of all the amazing-ness of Ama, right in the center of the city. And these guys know how to make a sauce.
Whatever you do, don’t finish without a slice of cheesecake. This is also upstairs in the bar, but it’s truly different, a version of the Basque style but with a much more pronounced cheese flavor, made with funkier local cheeses.
What does Bertakoteka mean, you may be wondering?
A place for locals. Or local stuff. Bertako = local. Teka = a suffix meaning a place.
Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 17
Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa
Phone: +34 943 02 16 00